This is the 9–10 month brumation prep guide for bearded dragons. For general brumation information, see our brumation page. For illness-vs-brumation distinction, see our brumation vs illness page. For 0–12 month care, see our baby care guide.
The short answer
September–October is the peak brumation preparation window for adult bearded dragons (12+ months). The 8-step prep checklist is: (1) baseline vet check, (2) weight log, (3) photoperiod shift, (4) basking temperature reduction, (5) food scale-back, (6) water monitoring, (7) hide setup, (8) daily observation log. Brumation is not illness — but missing the prep window or confusing it with a health problem can hurt the dragon. Start prep 4–6 weeks before your dragon typically slows down. For northern hemisphere keepers, that means early September. Brumation typically runs November–February but the prep window is critical [$TRAE_REF](https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/brumation/)[$TRAE_REF](https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/bearded-dragons).
[IMAGE: Fall brumation prep timeline for bearded dragon showing September October November milestones with eight step checklist including vet check weight log photoperiod shift and water setup, source-needed, alt=”Fall brumation prep timeline for bearded dragon showing September October November milestones with eight step checklist including vet check weight log photoperiod shift and water setup”]
The September–November brumation timeline
Brumation is a seasonal response to decreasing daylight and ambient temperature, not a calendar problem. The exact timing varies by dragon, but the preparation rhythm is consistent.
| Month | Dragon behavior | Your action |
|---|---|---|
| September (early) | Eating normally, active, basking full duration | Schedule baseline vet check (parasite screen, weight, wellness) — book now, appointment in 4-6 weeks |
| September (late) | First subtle signs: sleeping 30 min earlier, slightly less interested in food | Start photoperiod shift (lights off 30 min earlier each week), record weight weekly |
| October (early) | Choosing favorite basking spot, eating 50–70% of normal, less active | Reduce basking temperature by 5°F, offer food every 2-3 days, fresh water always available |
| October (late) | Sleeping 14-16 hours, eating very little, seeking cool hide | Confirm brumation is starting (not illness) using the 12 signs from our brumation vs illness page; vet baseline already done |
| November | Sleeping most of the day, eating rarely or not at all, occasionally moving to drink | Maintain temperature gradient, fresh water always available, no food, no handling, daily brief check |
| December–February | Mostly inactive, may wake briefly to drink and bask occasionally | Continue minimal disturbance; expect 1-3 month brumation; vet check if weight loss >10% or symptoms change |
| March | Waking more frequently, basking longer, showing interest in food | Resume normal photoperiod (12-14h light), offer food daily, schedule vet recheck if appetite doesn’t return within 2 weeks |
Northern vs southern hemisphere
This timeline assumes northern hemisphere (US, Canada, Europe, most of Asia). For southern hemisphere keepers (Australia, NZ, South America), brumation shifts by 6 months — your prep window is March–April and brumation runs May–August. The principles are the same; only the months shift.
The 8-step brumation prep checklist
Run through this checklist in order. Each step builds on the previous.
Step 1: Baseline vet check (early September)
Schedule a wellness exam + fecal parasite screen 4-6 weeks before expected brumation start. The vet will: weigh the dragon, examine eyes/mouth/skin, take a fecal sample for coccidia/pinworms, and confirm the dragon is healthy enough for brumation. A sick dragon should not brumate — the vet will catch parasites, dehydration, or weight loss that would complicate brumation. Skip this step only if your dragon had a clean bill of health within the last 3 months [$TRAE_REF](https://beardeddragonhub.com/baby-bearded-dragon-first-week/”>first week vet guide).
Step 2: Weight log (early September)
Weigh the dragon weekly on a kitchen scale (grams). Record the number. Healthy brumation weight loss is under 5% of body weight per month. Anything faster is illness, not brumation. Use this baseline to compare against later readings — if the dragon loses 10% in the first month, see a vet. The weight log also helps you catch dehydration (sudden 5%+ drop in a week).
Step 3: Photoperiod shift (late September)
Gradually shorten the day length by 30 minutes per week. If your lights are normally on 7am–7pm (12 hours), shift to 7am–6:30pm by week 2, 7am–6pm by week 3, etc. The shortening day length is the primary signal that triggers brumation in the wild. Don’t suddenly cut to 8 hours — the abrupt change can stress the dragon. See our baby lighting guide for the full lighting cycle explanation.
Step 4: Basking temperature reduction (early October)
Once the photoperiod is shortened to 10 hours, drop the basking temperature by 5°F over 2 weeks. A 105°F basking spot becomes 100°F, then 95°F. Don’t disable the basking light entirely — the dragon needs heat to digest even reduced meals. Just reduce the heat output. If you use a dimming thermostat, drop the set point. If you use a dimmer switch, adjust manually.
Step 5: Food scale-back (early October)
Offer food every 2-3 days instead of daily. The dragon will start refusing more often — that’s normal. Don’t force-feed. Reduce insect portions by half, then by two-thirds, then offer only greens occasionally. Don’t withhold water — fresh water must be available at all times. See our feeding schedule for age-specific portions.
Step 6: Water monitoring (October–November)
Fresh water must be available every day, even if the dragon is sleeping 18 hours. Brumating dragons can dehydrate quickly. Offer a shallow water dish (deep enough to drink from, shallow enough to prevent drowning) and check it daily. If the dragon wakes during brumation, it will often drink immediately — that’s normal and healthy. See our dehydration page for warning signs.
Step 7: Hide setup (late September)
Make sure the enclosure has a cool hide on the opposite side from the basking light. The dragon will use this hide to sleep during brumation. The hide should be dark inside (a half-log, cave, or covered box). Add some substrate or a damp paper towel inside for comfort. If you have multiple hides, the dragon will choose — that’s normal.
Step 8: Daily observation log (October onward)
Keep a simple log: date, weight, hours of activity, food offered/food eaten, water intake, stool (if any), and any unusual behavior. A 30-second daily check is enough — don’t wake the dragon up to check on it, but observe when it does wake. Watch for any of the 6 red flags (below). If the dragon’s behavior changes mid-brumation, see a vet.
The 5 brumation start signals
All five together strongly suggest brumation rather than illness:
- Sleeping earlier each day — gradual shift over 2-4 weeks, not sudden
- Eating less — refusing food 1-2x per week, then more often
- Choosing the cool hide — preferring cooler, darker areas
- Slower movements — less hunting, less basking, more lounging
- Weight loss under 5%/month — slow, predictable, not sudden
See our brumation vs illness page for the full 12-sign comparison table.
The 6 red flags requiring immediate vet visit
Call your exotics vet within 24 hours if you see any of these during brumation prep or brumation itself:
- Weight loss >5% in a week (or >10% in a month) — dehydration or illness
- Sunken eyes, wrinkled skin — severe dehydration
- Labored breathing or open-mouth breathing at rest — respiratory infection
- Discharge from eyes, nose, or mouth — infection
- Abnormal stool (watery, bloody, foul) — parasites or infection
- Tremors, soft jaw, or weakness — early metabolic bone disease (MBD)
See our first week guide for the broader red flags applicable year-round.
Can I force my dragon into brumation?
No. Brumation is a physiological response triggered by environmental cues (day length, temperature) and the dragon’s internal state. Forcing it by dropping temperature rapidly or removing food will stress the dragon and may cause illness. The correct approach is to provide the environmental cues gradually (photoperiod + temperature reduction) and let the dragon enter brumation naturally when its body is ready. If your dragon doesn’t brumate in a given year, that’s also normal — not all dragons brumate every year, and first-year juveniles rarely brumate.
Quick answers
When do bearded dragons brumate?
Brumation typically runs November–February in the northern hemisphere. The prep window is September–October. Some dragons brumate for 1 month, others for 3 months — both are normal. See our general brumation page.
When should I start preparing for brumation?
Early September in the northern hemisphere. Schedule the vet check now (4-6 weeks before expected start), start the photoperiod shift in late September, reduce basking temperature in early October, and start offering food every 2-3 days by mid-October.
How long does bearded dragon brumation last?
1-3 months is typical. Some dragons brumate for 6 weeks, others for 4 months. The length varies by individual. The key indicator of healthy brumation is gradual weight loss under 5%/month with brief wake periods for water.
Do baby bearded dragons brumate?
Babies under 12 months rarely brumate. If your juvenile (4-12 months) slows down in winter, it could be normal seasonal slowdown OR illness — see a vet. Adults (18+ months) brumate most reliably. Don’t force a baby or juvenile to brumate.
Is it normal for a bearded dragon to brumate in August?
August is early for brumation in the northern hemisphere. If your dragon is slowing down in August, it’s more likely heat stress (if the room is warm) or illness than brumation. Verify temperatures are correct (see our temperature guide) and rule out illness before assuming brumation.
Is it normal for a bearded dragon to brumate in January?
January is peak brumation month. A dragon waking occasionally to drink and bask is normal. A dragon that has been brumating for 2+ months and is still eating/drinking on wake is normal. A dragon that hasn’t started eating by March needs a vet check to rule out underlying illness.
What if my dragon never brumates?
Not all bearded dragons brumate every year, especially young adults or dragons kept in stable year-round temperatures. As long as the dragon is eating, drinking, and active, no brumation is fine — it doesn’t mean the dragon is sick.
Can I wake my dragon up during brumation to check on it?
Brief, gentle checks are OK — observe quietly, don’t handle, don’t move the dragon. Waking the dragon repeatedly for handling or “just to make sure it’s OK” stresses the dragon and can prolong brumation or trigger illness. Daily brief observation is fine; daily handling is not.
Sources & review
- ReptiFiles – Brumation: https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/brumation/
- VCA Animal Hospitals – Bearded Dragons: https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/bearded-dragons
- beardeddragon.org – Brumation Discussion: https://beardeddragon.org/
- LafeberVet – Bearded Dragon Basic Information: https://lafeber.com/vet/basic-information-for-bearded-dragons/
- Zen Habitats – Brumation Guide: https://www.zenhabitats.com/
This guide is informational and does not replace veterinary care. If you see any of the 6 red flags during brumation prep or brumation, see an exotics vet immediately. Healthy brumation is gradual; sudden changes in behavior or weight warrant a vet visit.